Pedro Parra, a consultant on terroir, says rocks matter most. In fact, 90% of the world’s best wines are grown on rocky soils. But you need imagination to understand how the vines and rocks interact. The roots probe deep into fractures in the mother rock to feed – each fissure imparting a unique set of favours in the wine. “One restaurant can be Asian, another can be Italian, another can be French. That is what makes every site special,” he says.